Do you read INCI lists before buying? So do we. Here's the complete composition of ExoBlanc™ — 44 ingredients deciphered one by one, with their role, their dosage when public, and why they are there. Zero gray areas.
Most brands hide their concentrations behind vague formulas — "enriched with", "based on", "infused with". At DERMALYS, we take the opposite approach: displaying the exact dosages of key active ingredients, and explaining each line of the INCI list so you know exactly what you're putting on your skin.
If you've read our anti-wrinkle mask buying guide, you know that an active ingredient's position in the INCI list and transparency about concentrations are two decisive criteria. Let's apply them to our own product.
How to read an INCI list: the 30-second reminder
For those new to this: INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the universal system that lists ingredients in descending order of concentration. The first ingredient is the most concentrated, the last is the least.
💡 The 3 key rules
- Above 1% — Strictly decreasing order (mandatory)
- Below 1% — Free order (the brand can place them as it wishes)
- The benchmark — Phenoxyethanol (preservative) is almost always dosed between 0.5% and 1%. Active ingredients listed AFTER it are therefore below 1%.
For ExoBlanc™, we go further than the legal obligation: we publish the exact concentrations of our 8 main active ingredients, taken from our technical data sheet (MSDS) signed by the MezoPharm laboratory.
The 8 star active ingredients of ExoBlanc™: exact dosages and roles
Here are the 8 active ingredients that form the core of the ExoBlanc™ formula. For each: the exact concentration, its role in the formula, and why this dosage was chosen.
🧬 PDRN (Sodium DNA) — 500 ppm (0.05%)
Role: Tissue regeneration active ingredient. Activates A2A receptors in fibroblasts to restart endogenous collagen production.
Why 500 ppm: This is the dosage used in Korean dermatological protocols post-laser. Below 300 ppm, efficacy drops significantly. Above 800 ppm, no additional benefit demonstrated topically.
PDRN is associated with +30% collagen synthesis in clinical studies*. *Individual results may vary.
✨ Rosa Damascena Exosomes — 500 ppm (0.05%)
Role: Cell communication nanovesicles. Transport growth factors directly to target cells, without needing to cross the barrier by passive diffusion.
Why 500 ppm: Concentration aligned with the study by Kim et al. (2022) which demonstrated -22% wrinkle depth in 4 weeks on 50 participants. Formulas with less than 300 ppm do not reach the clinical efficacy threshold.
⚡ Niacinamide — 2%
Role: Versatile Vitamin B3. Stimulates ceramide synthesis (skin barrier), reduces inflammation, evens skin tone, regulates sebum.
Why 2% and not 5% or 10%: For sensitive skin (our primary target), 2% offers all the benefits without the risk of "niacinamide flush". Studies show that beyond 5%, the gain is marginal while the risk of irritation increases.
🌿 Centella Asiatica — 0.8%
Role: Skin barrier repairer. Contains 4 active compounds (asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassoside, madecassic acid) that stimulate type I collagen and reduce inflammation.
Why 0.8%: Optimal range for sensitive skin (0.5-1%). Sufficient dosage for repairing action without risk of sensitization at high doses.
🌸 Double Licorice — 0.55% total
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (0.5%) + Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (0.05%)
Role: Double anti-redness action. Glycyrrhiza provides the complete extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate provides the purified and more targeted form. Together, they cover a broader anti-inflammatory spectrum than a single compound.
What is unique: This "Double Licorice" combination is rare in market masks. Most only use one form.
🤍 Chamomile (Chamomilla Recutita) — 0.5%
Role: Immediate soothing. Reduces sensations of heat and discomfort. The natural bisabolol in chamomile calms reactive skin upon application.
💧 Betaine — 0.8%
Role: Natural osmoprotectant. Retains water in cells without making the formula heavy. Unlike glycerin alone, betaine protects cells from osmotic stress.
💎 EGF (sh-Oligopeptide-1) + IGF (sh-Polypeptide-1) — 0.02% each
Role: Biomimetic growth factors. EGF stimulates epidermal cell proliferation, IGF supports cell growth and differentiation. Together, they accelerate skin renewal.
Deliberately low dosage: Growth factors are active at tiny concentrations (that's their nature as "signals"). Too high a dosage does not improve results.
✅ What this means in practice
8 functional active ingredients, all dosed in their optimal efficacy range, all listed BEFORE preservatives in the INCI list. This is not a "diluted cocktail" with 20 ingredients at 0.001% — it is an architected formula where each active ingredient has a precise role at a validated dosage.
🔬 These 8 active ingredients, in 30 ml of concentrated serum:
See ExoBlanc™ — Full formula →The serum base: the 93% that make the difference
The 8 star active ingredients represent about 5-7% of the formula. The remaining 93% is not "filler" — it's the serum base that determines the texture, penetration, and stability of the active ingredients.
💡 What the serum base contains
- Purified water — Universal solvent, vehicle for water-soluble active ingredients
- Glycerin — Humectant that attracts and retains water in the epidermis
- Butylene Glycol — Solvent and light moisturizer, improves active ingredient penetration
- Texturizing agents — Carbomer, Xanthan Gum (natural thickeners)
- Allantoin (0.04%) — Gentle healing agent, soothes micro-irritations
- Adenosine (0.04%) — Anti-wrinkle recognized by Korean regulations (KFDA)
- Argireline (0.03%) — Anti-expression peptide. Deliberately low dosage: at 0.03%, the effect is slight and we do not claim a "botox-like" effect
⚠️ Transparency on Argireline
Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) is present at 0.03% in ExoBlanc™. The clinical dosage for a significant effect on expression wrinkles is 5-10%. At 0.03%, the effect is underdosed for an anti-expression wrinkle claim. This is why we never communicate "Botox alternative" — it would be misleading. Argireline is present as a supporting ingredient, not as a star active ingredient.
Preservatives: what you need to know
Any cosmetic product containing water MUST contain preservatives. Without them, the mask would become a breeding ground for bacteria in a few days. The real question is which ones and at what dose.
| Preservative | Concentration | Authorized EU Limit | Our position |
|---|---|---|---|
| Phenoxyethanol | 0.02% | 1.0% | 50× below the limit |
| Chlorphenesin | 0.04% | 0.3% | 7.5× below the limit |
🧪 Phenoxyethanol
🧪 Chlorphenesin
The combination of Phenoxyethanol + Chlorphenesin at these minimal dosages ensures 36-month stability (validated by stability tests) while maintaining an optimal tolerance profile. The formula is paraben-free.
What is NOT in ExoBlanc™ (and why)
What you will never find in our formula
- ✅ Paraben-free — Replaced by Phenoxyethanol + Chlorphenesin in minimal doses
- ✅ Denatured alcohol-free — Dries out the skin barrier, incompatible with our repairing approach
- ✅ SLS / SLES-free — Aggressive surfactants useless in a mask
- ✅ Synthetic fragrance-free — Only natural lavender at 0.01% (trace concentration)
- ✅ Artificial colorant-free — The serum is naturally translucent
- ✅ Mineral oil-free — No petrochemicals in a regeneration formula
A note on 0.01% natural lavender: this concentration is so low that it is below the olfactory threshold for most people. It is present for its soothing properties, not for fragrance. The Coumarin listed in trace is a natural component of lavender, obligatorily declared in INCI even at infinitesimal doses.
pH 5.78: why it's important
The skin's natural pH is between 4.5 and 6.5. A product that is too alkaline (pH > 7) disrupts the skin barrier. A product that is too acidic (pH < 4) can irritate.
ExoBlanc™ has a pH of 5.78, measured and documented on the technical sheet. This is within the optimal compatibility range — acidic enough to respect the skin's acid mantle, close enough to neutral to avoid any irritation even on reactive skin.
44 ingredients • 8 dosed active ingredients • pH 5.78 • CPNP n°5094089 • 30-day money-back guarantee
❓ FAQ — ExoBlanc™ Composition
Where can I check ExoBlanc™ CPNP registration?
ExoBlanc™ is registered on the European CPNP portal under number 5094089 (registration date: 15/04/2025). The CPNP (Cosmetic Products Notification Portal) is the official European Union register where all cosmetic products sold in Europe must be notified. This number can be verified online by competent authorities.
Why are exosomes in position 16-17 of the INCI list and not higher?
Exosomes and PDRN are dosed at 500 ppm each (0.05%). This is below the 1% threshold, so their position in the list is free. But 500 ppm is the clinically validated concentration — growth factors and nanovesicles act at very low doses. An active ingredient does not need to be at 10% to be effective. This is the very nature of these biotechnological active ingredients: they are signals, not bulk agents.
Does ExoBlanc™ contain allergens?
Coumarin is listed in trace (natural component of lavender, obligatorily declared even at infinitesimal doses). If you have a known allergy to Coumarin or lavender, we recommend testing on a small area before full first use. Otherwise, the formula is designed to minimize allergic risk.
Is ExoBlanc™ tested on animals?
No. ExoBlanc™ is not tested on animals. We have a non-animal testing certificate issued by our manufacturer MezoPharm (dated 27/09/2024). However, we do not claim a "Certified Cruelty-free" label because we do not have third-party certification (Leaping Bunny, PETA). Transparency requires this distinction.
Is 2% Niacinamide sufficient?
Yes. Studies show that the benefits of Niacinamide (ceramides, anti-inflammation, radiance) are significant starting from 2%. The "sweet spot" for sensitive skin is 2-4%. Above 5%, the risk of "flush" (temporary redness) increases without a proportional gain. Our 2% dosage is a deliberate choice for tolerance, not a cost compromise.
🌟 ExoBlanc™ — The formula deciphered, nothing to hide
- 🧬 PDRN 500 ppm — Deep tissue regeneration
- ✨ Exosomes 500 ppm — Cellular communication
- ⚡ Niacinamide 2% — Barrier + radiance
- 🌿 Centella 0.8% — Skin repair
- 🌸 Double Licorice 0.55% — Anti-redness
- 📦 30 ml serum • pH 5.78 • 44 ingredients
ISO 22716 • CPNP n°5094089 • Not tested on animals • 30-day money-back guarantee
💬 WhatsApp: 07 58 16 19 57
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